|
Squash
|
Sowing depth |
Germination soil temp. |
Day's to germination |
Sow indoors |
Sow outdoors |
|
½" to 1" |
70 to 90º F |
6 to 14 |
4 Weeks before last frost |
after dander of frost, soil temp. 65º
F |
|
Soil PH |
Growing soil temp. |
Plant spacing |
Light Requirement |
Seed longevity |
|
5.5 to 7.0 |
65 to 75º F |
18 to 24" 2 rows in 48" wide beds
|
Full sun |
4 Years, refrigerated |
General Information:
Squash,
Zucchini and Cucuzzi are very popular crops grown here by
almost everyone who gardens. Squash family vegetable are
very easy to grow. In fact we usually grow at least two crop
per season. Squash and Zucchini can be grown from seedlings
or easily direct seeded into you wide beds. They are very
vigorous plants growing to massive size and very colorful.
The fruit produced
come
in a variety of wonderful colors from green, yellow, gold
and multi-colors as well. I even have some growing in trees
as pictured at left. Squash family members are warm season
crop producing abundant yields. In fact most gardeners have
a hard time giving them all away. Squash like loose, rich
well drained soil amended with liberal amounts of compost
and well rotted manure. Squash
require
full sun for best production.
Seed Starting:
A great Squash crop begins with large vigorous healthy
seedlings 4 to 6 weeks old, grown in 4" or larger growing
pots. Growing your own seedlings insure quality and
varieties not commercially available. Squash seedling are
usually commercially available from gardening retailers if
your prefer purchasing seedlings. The seeds should be
started about 4 to 6 weeks before your average last frost
date in your zone, or your planned transplant date. Make
sure the seed starting mix is a light sterile soil mix with
a liberal portion of Perlite or Vermiculite to maintain
moisture. Sow 1 seeds per 4"pot about ¾" to 1" deep in
pre-moistened growing mix. During the day, keep the
seedling next to a sunny window after they have germinated.
Move to top of the water heater or refrigerator at night if
you do not have a greenhouse. A heated greenhouse will
produce ideal, controllable growing conditions. I also use
supplemental overhead florescent lighting. Here in Southeast
Texas our late winter days are too short to produce healthy
plants. Never allow your lights to burn more than 16 hours
per day. A cheap electrical timer is the key to success
here. Seedlings must be allowed to have a period of rest
from light to grow properly. Hang your lights 1½ inches
above the tops of the seedlings. This will prevent the
seedling from becoming leggy. Raise the lights suspended by
a chain as the plants grow. Do not allow the soil to dry
out. I feed my newly emerged seedling every other watering
cycle. I prefer feeding my young seedlings with Fish
Emulsion or liquid seaweed. After they have grown to 3" I
use a fertilizer high in phosphorus like Scotts Peters
Professional 9-45-15 plant starter item #91140. Call
1-800-492-8255 for a dealer near you. Seeds can also be
started by directly sowing into your prepared wide row beds.
Plant 1 to 2 seeds ¾" to 1" deep and water gently. Two
weeks after seedling have emerged thin to a the seedlings to
1 seedling per hill to allow adequate room for growth.
Soil Preparation:
For best results incorporate Liberal amounts of compost or
well rotted manure deeply dug into the soil. Beware of
fresh manure as it may contain seeds, & high concentrations
of urine & salts. Since Squash family are shallow rooted
plant it is very sensitive to moisture fluctuations.
Without adequate moisture the shallow roots cannot deliver
the require nutrients to produce properly. Rake to break up
& remove debris from the soil. Work the soil only when it is
dry enough not to stick to garden tools. Form a 48" wide
bed the length of your choice. Using a garden hoe form a
shallow trench in the center of the 48" wide bed about 4"
deep. Do not allow the trench between the 2 rows too extend
beyond the end of the beds as this trench will hold water
later. The 2 rows in the 48" wide bed should be about 16"
to 20" apart. I always amend my soil with Diazinon
granules at the rate or 1 cup per 100 square foot of bed.
Work the crystal 3" deep into the 36" wide beds. This
insecticide will minimize vine borers from attacking your
vines.
Fertilization:
Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization
needs. Soil sample kits including sample bag and
instructions can be obtained from your local county
Agricultural extension service office free of charge.
However, the fee for the actual soil analysis is usually
about $15.00.
Squash need very fertile soil to produce well. It is best to
add additional aged cow manure to each planting hill. Dig a
hole about 6" deep and 6" in diameter 18" to 24" apart.
Half fill the holes with aged cow manure and mix with soil
removed from the hole creating a small hill. Also apply two
tablespoons of 13-13-13 balanced fertilizer in the trench
between hills at planting time, again at first sign of
blooms and when you first harvests begins. When you water
your plants in the trench the fertilizer will constantly
feed your hungry plants.
Hardening Off:
It will be necessary to harden off your seedlings before
transplanting into the garden bed. The seedling must become
accustomed to the harsher elements outdoors. This is
accomplished by placing the seedling outside to a sheltered
location. At this point the seedlings are very tender and
easily broken by wind and rain. Start out by placing the
seedling in full morning sunlight for one hour. Increase the
time in full sunlight gradually adding time each day.
Protect your seedlings from wind and animals to prevent
breakage of the tender vegetation. Within two weeks your
plants should be able to stand full sunlight the entire day
without wilting or burning the tender leaves. At this point
your seedlings are ready for the harsh elements of the
garden.
Planting & Growing:
Transplant potted seedling or direct sow seed after all
danger of frost has passed in the previously prepared 48"
wide beds 18" to 24" apart. Plants can be set slightly
deeper when transplanting. Avoid disturbing the roots as
much as possible as they are very fragile. Water the plants
well during transplanting using about 1 pint of starter
solution on each transplant, or use commercially prepared
starter solution according to manufacturer's instructions.
This can be a weak solution of 20-20-20 general plant food
or commercially available root stimulator. This will
encourage rapid root growth & produce fruit of acceptable
quality. Squash grow very rapidly and attain large size once
set out into the beds. Squash simply vine on the soil,
vining varieties such as Cucuzzi climb up a sturdy trellis
or fence.. Vining squash produce very heavy fruit and
require a sturdy support if trellised. Cover the entire 36"
wide bed including the trench between the rows with leaves
or straw mulch. The mulch will retain moisture, attract
worms, and reduce the growth of weeds in the beds. Any weeds
that do germinate are easily removed by hand or light
cultivation. When it is time to water your plants simply
apply a moderate amount of water into the trench between the
row you formed earlier. Do not apply water to quickly as
you may wash out soil holding the water. The water will
slowly soak deeply onto the root zone. Using this method
your plants will always have adequate moisture to perform
well. It is of great importance that the soil be kept moist
and weed free. If you live in the northern states with short
growing seasons you can get an early start by buying or
constructing a cold frame. frames can be as crude as bails
of hay or straw formed into a shallow box covered with a
storm door or plastic. The heat from the earth should keep
them from freezing if the box is sealed properly.
Care during the growing
season:
Squash require little care other than providing moist weed
free soil to grow in. Harvest fruit properly to keep the
vines producing throughout the growing season.
| Pests
& Diseases: |
| |
|
|
Pests |
Cucumber beetles, squash vine borers,
squash bugs, stinkbugs, pickleworms
|
Pest |
Description |
|
Squash vine borer: |
The
primary pests associated with growing Squash
is the squash vine borer. Eggs are laid on
the lower stems by a moth. Eggs are usually
laid in April & May. The best remedy for
vine borers is to plant early or late in the
season to avoid the moths egg laying cycle.
When the eggs hatch the bore worm enter the
vine and eat the center and kill the vines.
Apply a insecticide to the soil to minimize
the infestation. Inspect the base of your
vine often for the presence of borers. The
surface of the stem will be discolored and
deformed. split the stem and try to remove
the borers and cover the vine with soil. If
you find borers do not place the vines in
your compost pile at the end of the season,
burn them. |
50% Sevin wp (wetable
powder) seems to be very effective. Be careful using
insecticides as you may kill your pollinators as
well. If you kill your pollinators, you won't have
any squash. Spray only the lower stems to kill vine
borers. Mix 1 tablespoon per gallon of water.
|
|
Diseases |
Bacterial
wilt, Fusarium wilt, downy & powdery mildew, blossom
end rot
|
Disease |
Description |
|
Powdery mildew: |
This
problem is usually caused by high humidity
or overhead watering too late in the day
easily controlled with a fungicide. |
|
The severity of insect
attack is much greater in late crops. It is suggested that
the control program start early (emerging seedlings) and
continued on a regular basis. Consult your local county
extension service office for diagnosis and recommended
treatment.
Harvesting:
Cut the squash from the vine using
a sharp knife or pruning shears to avoid damaging the plant.
Summer squash vines are very prolific, the more harvest the
greater the yield. Keep you squash harvested to promote
continued production throughout the growing season.
Storage:
Squash can be stored in the refrigerator for short periods.
Squash can also be cleaned, sliced and frozen for later use. |