Potatoes

General Information:
Potatoes seem to be one of those vital vegetables we can't live without. There's nothing magical about successfully growing potatoes.  There is an abundant supply of commercially grown potatoes in our local markets. However, home grown potatoes always taste better in my opinion. Growing your  potatoes allows you to choose varieties normally not  commercially available. They come in a rainbow of colors from  white, red, blue & gold. Seed potatoes are called tubers and are usually sold by garden retailers at the appropriate time of year for growing in your area. Potatoes found in the local market are usually treated with a chemical which discourages sprouting, and may carry disease so growing these tubers is not recommended. It is best to purchase certified tubers.  Potatoes require loose, rich, well drained sandy soil with liberal amounts of organic composted matter incorporated into the soil for best results. It is not recommended to use animal manure in soil for growing potatoes. Manure will enhance the possibility of developing potato scab disease.

Soil Preparation:
For best results incorporate liberal  amounts of compost deeply dug into the soil.  Rake to break up & remove debris from the soil. Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick to garden tools. Potatoes grown In heavy clay or rocky soils mature slower and the roots are usually rough, stubby and unattractive. Work  the soil 8-12 inches deep.  Smooth the soil and work it up into 36" to 48" wide beds. Deep wide  Beds allow good movement of air and water through the soil. Heavy soil retain too much moisture and will promote rotting of the tubers.

Fertilization:
Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization needs.  Soil sample kits including sample bag and instructions can be  obtained from your local county  Agricultural extension service office free of charge. However, the fee  for the actual soil analysis is usually about $15.00.  

Scatter 1 cup of complete fertilizer such as 10-20-10 on the soil for each 100 square feet of row to be planted. Using a garden rake, work the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 3-4 inches. Alternative organic fertilizers may also be used. Compost teas also work very effectively. Ideally a cover crop such as clover, buckwheat or winter rye grown in the potato bed the year before potatoes are planted to improves soil structure, organic-matter content and subsequent potato production.

Tuber preparation:
Tuber must be prepared a week before planting into  the beds. Try to select large tuber with ample eye formation. Avoid tubers that have already sprouted showing stems growth. Cut the tuber into smaller 1½" thick pieces containing at least two eyes per piece. The tuber should then be healed by placing in a brown paper market bag containing lime and agricultural sulfur to minimize fungal disease and potato beetle. Cover all cut surfaced and allow to dry in a cool ventilated area.

Planting & Growing:
Plant tuber 4"to 6" deep and spaced about 10" apart. Plant two rows equally space in your 36" wide beds. press the tuber into the bottom of the hold to maximize the tuber contact with the soil. Pour a small amount of water into each hold an allow to soak into the soil before covering the holes with soil.  When the tops appear gradually hill the tops with loose soil pulled from both sides of the row forming a trench between the two row. Do not allow the trench between row to extend beyond the end of the wide bed. Continue this until the hills are 10" to 12" tall. There should only be about 3" of tops above the soil at this point. Cover the entire bed including the trench with leaves or straw mulch. This will conserve moisture attract worms and reduce the growth of weeds in the beds. Any weeds that do germinate are easily removed be hand or light cultivation.  Ideally the leaves or straw mulch should be shredded for maximum contact with the tops. Continue adding mulch to tops as they continue to grow. When it is time to water your plants simply apply a moderate amount of water into the trench between the row you formed earlier.  Do not apply water to quickly as you may wash out  soil holding the water. The water will slowly soak deeply onto the root zone.  Using this method your plants will always have adequate moisture to perform well.

Care during the growing season:
Keep the potato patch moist and weed free until harvest. Moderate soil  moisture is of particular importance when the tops start to form flowers. At this time side dress the plant at the rate of ½ cup of 13-13-13 per 20 row feet applied in the trench and watered in well. Do no put the fertilizer in contact with the tops.

The severity of insect attack is much greater in late crops. It is suggested that the control program start early (emerging seedlings) and continued on a regular basis.  Consult your local county extension  service office for diagnosis and recommended treatment.

Harvesting:
Potatoes are fully developed and can be harvest after the vines have died. Handle as gently as possible during harvest. Because the tubers develop well below the surface. Us a garden fork to loosen the soil and extract the potatoes. If small new potatoes are desire a few hill can be dug during the growing season prior to the tops dying back.  New potatoes is a favorite cooked with snap beans in mid spring.

Storage:
Even stored under the best conditions, potatoes lose some quality the longer they are stored. For best results, store in a cool, dark place with good air circulation. Do not refrigerate potatoes. Cold temperatures convert starch to sugar, giving potatoes an uncharacteristic sweet taste. High sugar content in potatoes is not desirable as they caramelize and turn brown when cooked.