Peppers

General Information:
Peppers are one of the most commonly used vegetable in the kitchen today. They come in a rainbow of colors varying in size and taste from mild to very hot. Peppers add color and interest to the garden. Peppers are warm season crop usually grown alone side Tomatoes as they are both acid loving plants.. Pepper plants require somewhat higher temperatures, grow more slowly and are smaller than most tomato plants. They require fairly high temperatures for germination and growth but benefit from exposure to chilly temperatures early in there growth cycle. After seedling have grown three sets of  true leaves lowering the temperature to about 55° for 4 weeks will make them more productive later. This can be accomplished with an outdoor cold frame made from glass or plastic. Peppers also have a higher than normal light requirement for rapid growth. Pepper plants should never be handled after smoking or handling tobacco. Peppers are sensitive to exposure to tobacco mosaic virus.

Soil Preparation:
For best results incorporate moderate amounts of compost or well rotted manure deeply dug into the soil. Beware of fresh manure as it may contain seeds,  & high concentrations of urine & salts. Rake to break up & remove debris from the soil. Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick to garden tools.  Since peppers  is a shallow rooted plant it is very sensitive to moisture fluctuations.   Without adequate moisture the shallow roots  cannot deliver the require nutrients to produce properly.  Form a 36" wide bed the length of your choice. Using a garden hoe form a shallow trench in the center of the 36" wide bed about 4" deep. Do not allow the trench between the 2 rows too extend beyond the end of the beds as this trench will hold water later.  The 2 rows in the 36" wide bed should be about 12" apart.

Seed starting:
A great pepper  crop begins with large vigorous health seedlings 6 to 8 weeks old, grown in 4" or larger growing pots. Growing your own seedlings insure quality and varieties not commercially available. pepper seedling are commonly found commercially if you prefer just buying your seedlings. The seeds should be started about 6 to 8 weeks before your average last frost date in your zone,  Make sure the seed starting mix is a light sterile soil mix with a liberal portion of Perlite or Vermiculite to maintain moisture.  Sow 2 seeds per 4"pot about ¼" deep in pre-moistened growing mix. During the day, keep the seedling  next to a sunny window after they have germinated. Move to top of the water heater or refrigerator at night if you do not have a greenhouse. A heated greenhouse will produce ideal, controllable growing conditions. I also use supplemental overhead florescent lighting.  Never allow your lights to burn more than 16 hours per day. A cheap electrical timer is the key to success here. Seedlings must be allowed to have a period of rest from light to grow properly. Hang your lights 1½ inches above the tops of the seedlings. This will prevent the seedling from becoming leggy. Raise the lights suspended by a chain as the plants grow. Do not allow the soil to dry out.  I feed my newly emerged seedling every other watering cycle. I prefer feeding my young seedlings with Fish Emulsion or liquid seaweed.  After they have grown 2 true leaves I use a fertilizer high in phosphorus like Scotts Peters Professional 9-45-15 plant starter item #91140. Call 1-800-492-8255 for a dealer near you. Fertilize every two weeks until transplant time. Four weeks after seedlings have emerged clip off at the soil line the smallest of the 2 seedlings with scissors. Take care not to disturb the roots of any peppers. They are very sensitive to root damage.

Fertilization:
Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization needs.  Soil sample kits including sample bag and instructions can be  obtained from your local county  Agricultural extension service office free of charge. However the fee  for the actual soil analysis is usually about $15.00.

Pepper plants are shallow rooted heavy feeders requiring ample, even supplies nutrients including  Nitrogen, Phosphorus, & Potassium.  Use liquid fertilizer such as 20-20-20  when transplanting. Side dressing is also required for maximum production. Apply 13-13-13 at the rate of ½ cup per 20 row feet applied in the trench between plants when blooming begins and again at first harvest. Time released fertilizers like Osmocote have become very popular and work great lasting for 4 months. An organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion can be used bi-weekly.

Hardening Off:
It will be necessary to harden off your seedlings before transplanting into the garden bed. The seedling must become accustomed to the harsher elements outdoors. This is accomplished by placing the seedling outside to a sheltered location. At this point the seedlings are very tender and easily broken by wind and rain. Start out by placing the seedling in full morning sunlight for one hour. Increase the time in full sunlight gradually adding time each day. Protect your seedlings from wind and animals to prevent breakage of the tender vegetation. Within two weeks your plants should be able to stand full sunlight the entire day without wilting or burning the tender leaves. At this point your seedlings are ready for the harsh elements of the garden.

Planting & Growing
Water seedling well one hour before transplanting seedlings. Never pull a seedling from a growing cell. Turn it upside down cradled between your fingers and shake out gently. Great can should be used not to damage pepper roots. Apply Water the plants during transplanting  using about 1 pint of starter solution on each transplant, or use commercially prepared starter solution according to manufacturer's instructions. This can be a weak solution of  20-20-20  general plant food or commercially available root stimulator. This will encourage rapid root growth & produce heads of acceptable quality. Cover the entire  36" wide bed including the trench between the rows with leaves or straw mulch. The mulch will retain moisture, attract worms, and reduce the growth of weeds in the beds. Any weeds that do germinate are easily removed by hand or light cultivation.    When it is time to water your plants simply apply a moderate amount of water into the trench between the row you formed earlier.  Do not apply water to quickly as you may wash out  soil holding the water. The water will slowly soak deeply onto the root zone.  Using this method your plants will always have adequate moisture to perform well.

Care during the growing season:
Keep weed from competing with your plants. Side dress plants as outlined above. Keep ripe pepper removed to promote continued production throughout the season.

The severity of insect attack is much greater in late crops. It is suggested that the control program start early (emerging seedlings) and continued on a regular basis.  Consult your local county extension  service office for diagnosis and recommended treatment.

Harvesting:
Peppers can be harvested at ant time. Fruits may be harvested at any size desired. Green bell varieties, however, are usually picked when they are fully grown and mature, firm and green. When the fruits are mature, they break easily from the plant.

Storage:
Peppers should be eaten fresh but can be chopped and frozen for cooking. Hot peppers are commonly pickled and used as a hot spice.