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Onions
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Sowing depth |
Germination soil temp. |
Day's to germination |
Sow indoors |
Sow outdoors |
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Seed ¼", Sets ½" |
65 to 85º F |
5 to 14 days |
8 to 10 weeks before last frost |
Early spring |
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Soil PH |
Growing soil temp. |
Plant spacing |
Light Requirement |
Seed longevity |
|
6.0 to 7.0 |
55 to 75º F |
4" apart,4 row in 36" wide beds |
Full sun |
1 Years refrigerated |
General Information:
Onions
are one of the most widely used vegetables grown in the
garden. Many onion lovers grow green onions, scallions or
chives in containers for daily use. Onion is a cool-season
vegetable that can be grown successfully throughout most of
temperate North America. Onions may be grown from sets,
seedlings or seeds. Onion seed are extremely small and
sometimes difficult to germinate successfully due to there
size. High temperatures and low humidity are advantageous
during bulb growth and curing. Onions have shallow roots and
compete poorly with weeds and grasses. Timely shallow
cultivation are vital, especially when the onions are small.
Onions may be eaten raw, broiled, boiled, baked, creamed,
steamed, fried, French fried and pickled. They are used in
soups and stews and combination with vegetables and meats.
Because the onion family is so diverse (chives, scallions,
leeks, shallots, garlic, red onions, yellow onions, and
white onions), this lesson will be limited to scallions,
green garden onions and dry bulb garden onions.
Soil Preparation:
For best results incorporate
moderate amounts of compost or well rotted manure deeply dug
into the soil. Beware of fresh manure as it may contain
seeds, & high concentrations of urine & salts. Onions
shallow rooted and are still very sensitive to moisture
fluctuations. Without adequate moisture the shallow roots
cannot deliver the require nutrients to produce properly.
Rake to break up & remove debris from the soil. Work the
soil only when it is dry enough not to stick to garden
tools. Form a 36" wide bed the length of your choice. Using
a garden hoe form 3 shallow trenches equally dividing the
36" wide bed into 4 planting rows.
(See our
Misc. Page)
for bed design methods) Use
Type 4 bed design as pictured. Do no allow the shallow
trenches to extend beyond the ends of the bed. The trench
will be used to hold water later.
Seed starting:
Onions should be started in late summer about 12 weeks
before your average first frost date in your zone. Make sure
the seed starting mix is a light sterile soil mix with a
moderate portion of Perlite or Vermiculite to maintain
moisture. Evenly sprinkle an entire package of seed on the
top of pre-moistened growing mix in a 2" shallow growing
flat or individual cell packs with drainage holes. Lightly
cover the top of the seed about ¼" deep with vermiculite and
mist with a water bottle. During the day, keep the seedling
next to a sunny window keeping them moist. After they have
germinated, Move to top of the water heater or refrigerator
at night if you do not have a greenhouse. A greenhouse will
produce ideal, controllable growing conditions. Do not allow
the soil to dry out. I feed my newly emerged seedling every
other watering cycle. I prefer feeding my young seedlings
with Fish Emulsion or liquid seaweed. Onions grow very
slowly so be patient. When they grow tall enough to bend
down or droop cut about 1/3 off the tops. Use the cuttings
in as a salad or for seasoning. Topping will encourage root
growth. After they have grown large enough to handle without
breaking transplant them into the garden. Separate the roots
and space 4" apart Keep them moist and weed free. Onions
require heavy feeding initially. Any balanced fertilizer
like 13-13-13, compost tea or manure tea will work fine.
Planting & Growing
Sets:
Purchase small set about the size of a dime. Small sets are
less likely to bolt to seed prematurely. Growing green
onions from sets is probably the simplest method for the
home gardener. The plants are quickly established and become
vigorous quickly. Onion sets may be used to produce both
green onions and dry onion bulbs. Cover the entire 36" wide
bed including the trench between the rows with leaves or
straw mulch. The mulch will retain moisture, attract worms,
and reduce the growth of weeds in the beds. Any weeds that
do germinate are easily removed by hand or light
cultivation. When it is time to water your plants simply
apply a moderate amount of water into the trench between the
row you formed earlier. Do not apply water to quickly as
you may wash out soil holding the water. The water will
slowly soak deeply onto the root zone. Using this method
your plants will always have adequate moisture to perform
well. It is of great importance that the soil be kept moist
and weed free.
Fertilization:
Perform a complete soil analysis
to determine fertilization needs. Soil sample kits
including sample bag and instructions can be obtained from
your local county Agricultural extension service office
free of charge. However, the fee for the actual soil
analysis is usually about $15.00.
Onions require rich fertile soil to perform properly. Side
dress your seedling with 13-13-13 fertilizer 2 weeks after
they emerge and every 2 months thereafter. Apply ½ cup per
20 row feet in the trench between the rows.
Care during the growing
season:
Onions require little care during
the growing season other than watering and keeping seedlings
weed free. If you have planted multiplying green onions the
tops can be harvested anytime you wish. Multiplying onions
will produce about 9 divisions in a single season. Any that
are left after the season can be lifted, dried and replanted
next season. Do not top large dry bulb onions as this will
slow the production of large bulbs.
Pests & Diseases:
Few pests will bother onions.
Onion thrips may show up, and can be removed by washing
tops.
Harvesting:
Large dry bulb onion top will turn
brown and fall over when they are ready to be harvested.
When the top start turning brown withhold water to prevent
rotting.
Use a garden fork to loosen soil and gently remove from soil
preventing breaking the stalks.
Storage:
Allow dry bulb onions to cure on a
layer of newspaper in a warm, well ventilated place to cure
for a few days. Leave undisturbed until the skin becomes
papery and dry. Remove the roots, and braid the tops. Hang
in bunches or place in mesh bags and hang away from
moisture. If stored in a dry cool place 50 to 60°, they will
keep for months.
Green multiplying onions can be washed, cleaned, chopped and
frozen for later use. Fresh green onions will only keep
refrigerated for a week or so. They are best harvested when
needed.
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