Home

Daylilies

Flowers

Veggies

Links

Forum

Database

     
 

Home

 
 

Vegetable Gardening

 
 

Beans

 
 

Beets

 
 

Broccoli

 
 

Brussel Sprouts

 
 

Cabbage

 
 

Carrots

 
 

Corn

 
 

Cucumber

 
 

Eggplants

 
 

Garlic

 
  Gourds  
  Leeks  
  Lettuce  
  Melons  
  Okra  
  Onions  
  Peppers  
  Potatoes  
  Squash  
  Sweet Potatoes & Yams  
  Tomatoes  
  Turnip  
  Companion Planting  
  Tips & Techniques  
  Crop Rotation  
  Miscellaneous  
  Composting  
 

Forum

 

Onions

Sowing depth Germination soil  temp. Day's to germination Sow indoors Sow outdoors
Seed ¼", Sets ½"   65 to 85º F 5 to 14 days 8 to 10 weeks before last frost Early spring
Soil PH Growing soil temp. Plant spacing Light Requirement Seed longevity
6.0 to 7.0 55 to 75º F 4" apart,4 row in 36"  wide beds Full sun 1 Years refrigerated

General Information:
Onions are one of the most widely used vegetables grown in the garden. Many onion lovers grow green onions, scallions or chives in containers for daily use. Onion is a cool-season vegetable that can be grown successfully throughout most of temperate North America. Onions may be grown from sets, seedlings or seeds. Onion seed are extremely small and sometimes difficult to germinate successfully due to there size. High temperatures and low humidity are advantageous during bulb growth and curing. Onions have shallow roots and compete poorly with weeds and grasses. Timely shallow cultivation are vital, especially when the onions are small. Onions may be eaten raw, broiled, boiled, baked, creamed, steamed, fried, French fried and pickled. They are used in soups and stews and combination with vegetables and meats. Because the onion family is so diverse (chives, scallions, leeks, shallots, garlic, red onions, yellow onions, and white onions), this lesson will be limited to scallions, green garden onions and dry bulb garden onions.

 

Soil Preparation:
For best results incorporate moderate amounts of compost or well rotted manure deeply dug into the soil.  Beware of fresh manure as it may contain seeds, & high concentrations of urine & salts.  Onions shallow rooted and are still very sensitive to moisture fluctuations.   Without adequate moisture the shallow roots  cannot deliver the require nutrients to produce properly.  Rake to break up & remove debris from the soil. Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick to garden tools.  Form a 36" wide bed the length of your choice. Using a garden hoe form 3 shallow trenches equally dividing the 36" wide bed into 4 planting rows. (See our Misc. Page) for bed design methods) Use Type 4 bed design as pictured. Do no allow the shallow trenches to extend beyond the ends of the bed. The trench will be used to hold water later.

 

Seed starting:
Onions should be started in late summer about 12 weeks before your average first frost date in your zone. Make sure the seed starting mix is a light sterile soil mix with a moderate portion of Perlite or Vermiculite to maintain moisture. Evenly sprinkle an entire package of seed on the top of pre-moistened growing mix in a 2" shallow  growing flat or individual cell packs with drainage holes.  Lightly cover the top of the seed about ¼" deep with vermiculite and mist with a water bottle. During the day, keep the seedling  next to a sunny window keeping them moist. After they have germinated, Move to top of the water heater or refrigerator at night if you do not have a greenhouse. A greenhouse will produce ideal, controllable growing conditions. Do not allow the soil to dry out.  I feed my newly emerged seedling every other watering cycle. I prefer feeding my young seedlings with Fish Emulsion or liquid seaweed.   Onions grow very slowly so be patient. When they grow tall enough to bend down or droop cut about 1/3 off the tops. Use the cuttings in as a salad or for seasoning.  Topping will encourage root growth. After they have grown large enough to handle without breaking transplant them into the garden. Separate the roots and space 4" apart Keep them moist and weed free. Onions require heavy feeding initially. Any balanced fertilizer like 13-13-13, compost tea  or manure tea will work fine.

 

Planting & Growing Sets:
Purchase small set about the size of a dime. Small sets are less likely to bolt to seed prematurely. Growing green onions from sets is probably the simplest method for the home gardener. The plants are quickly established and become vigorous quickly. Onion sets may be used to produce both green onions and dry onion bulbs. Cover the entire 36" wide bed including the trench between the rows with leaves or straw mulch. The mulch will retain moisture, attract worms, and reduce the growth of weeds in the beds. Any weeds that do germinate are easily removed by hand or light cultivation.  When it is time to water your plants simply apply a moderate amount of water into the trench between the row you formed earlier.  Do not apply water to quickly as you may wash out  soil holding the water. The water will slowly soak deeply onto the root zone.  Using this method your plants will always have adequate moisture to perform well.  It is of great importance that the soil be kept moist and weed free.

 

Fertilization:
Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization needs.  Soil sample kits including sample bag and instructions can be  obtained from your local county  Agricultural extension service office free of charge. However, the fee  for the actual soil analysis is usually about $15.00.

Onions  require rich fertile soil to perform properly. Side dress your seedling with 13-13-13 fertilizer 2 weeks after they emerge and every 2 months thereafter. Apply ½ cup per 20 row feet in the trench between the rows.

 

Care during the growing season:
Onions require little care during the growing season other than watering and keeping seedlings weed free. If you have planted multiplying green onions the tops can be harvested anytime you wish. Multiplying onions will produce about 9 divisions in a single season. Any that are left after the season can be lifted, dried and replanted next season. Do not top large dry bulb onions as this will slow the production of large bulbs.

 

Pests & Diseases:
Few pests will bother onions. Onion thrips may show up, and can be removed by washing tops.

 

Harvesting:
Large dry bulb onion top will turn brown and fall over when they are ready to be harvested. When the top start turning brown withhold water to prevent rotting. Use a garden fork to loosen soil and gently remove from soil preventing breaking the stalks.



Storage:
Allow dry bulb onions to cure on a layer of newspaper in a warm, well ventilated place to cure for a few days. Leave undisturbed until the skin becomes papery and dry. Remove the roots, and braid the tops. Hang in bunches or place in mesh bags and hang away from moisture. If stored in a dry cool place 50 to 60°, they will keep for months.
Green multiplying onions can be washed, cleaned, chopped and frozen for later use.  Fresh green onions will only keep refrigerated for a week or so. They are best harvested when needed.

©2002 -2009 Tinker's Gardens