|
Eggplant
|
Sowing depth |
Germination soil temp. |
Day's to germination |
Sow indoors |
Sow outdoors |
|
¼" |
80º F |
7 days |
4 to 6 Week before last frost |
Not recommended |
|
Soil PH |
Growing soil temp. |
Plant spacing |
Light Requirement |
Seed longevity |
|
5.0 to 7.0 |
80 90º F |
18" apart, 2 rows in 36" wide beds |
Full sun |
4 years, refrigerated |
General Information:
Eggplant
is one of my must have crops. Eggplant is a cold sensitive,
warm weather crop. It will produce from mid spring to first
frost. It will not produce well until the onset of hot
weather. It's culture is very similar to Peppers but a
little larger in size. There are a dozens of varieties
ranging from small to large and white to black. I have grown
almost all of them with success. They are all delicious
prepared in many different ways. Unlike peppers they do not
tolerate low temperatures. Do not set out too early as they
could be damaged by an unseasonable cold front. Eggplant can
even be successfully grown in containers.
Soil Preparation:
For best results incorporate moderate amounts of compost
or well rotted manure deeply dug into the soil. Beware of
fresh manure as it may contain seeds, & high concentrations
of urine & salts. Rake to break up & remove debris from the
soil. Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick
to garden tools. Since eggplant is a shallow rooted plant it
is very sensitive to moisture fluctuations. Without
adequate moisture the shallow roots cannot deliver the
require nutrients to produce properly. Form a 36" wide bed
the length of your choice. Using a garden hoe form a shallow
trench in the center of the 36" wide bed about 4" deep. Do
not allow the trench between the 2 rows too extend beyond
the end of the beds as this trench will hold water later.
The 2 rows in the 36" wide bed should be about 12" apart.
Seed starting:
A
great Eggplant crop begins with large vigorous health
seedlings 6 to 8 weeks old, grown in 4" or larger growing
pots. Growing your own seedlings insure quality and
varieties not commercially available. Eggplants seedling are
commonly found commercially if you prefer just buying your
seedlings. The seeds should be started about 6 to 8 weeks
before your average last frost date in your zone, Make sure
the seed starting mix is a light sterile soil mix with a
liberal portion of Perlite or Vermiculite to maintain
moisture. Sow 2 seeds per 4"pot about ¼" deep in
pre-moistened growing mix. During the day, keep the seedling
next to a sunny window after they have germinated. Move to
top of the water heater or refrigerator at night if you do
not have a greenhouse. A heated greenhouse will produce
ideal, controllable growing conditions. I also use
supplemental overhead florescent lighting when needed. Never
allow your lights to burn more than 16 hours per day. A
cheap electrical timer is the key to success here. Seedlings
must be allowed to have a period of rest from light to grow
properly. Hang your lights 1½ inches above the tops of the
seedlings. This will prevent the seedling from becoming
leggy. Raise the lights suspended by a chain as the plants
grow. Do not allow the soil to dry out. I feed my newly
emerged seedling every other watering cycle. I prefer
feeding my young seedlings with Fish Emulsion or liquid
seaweed. After they have grown 2 true leaves I use a
fertilizer high in phosphorus like Scotts Peters
Professional 9-45-15 plant starter item #91140. Call
1-800-492-8255 for a dealer near you. Fertilize every two
weeks until transplant time. Four weeks after seedlings have
emerged clip off at the soil line the smallest of the 2
seedlings with scissors.
Fertilization:
Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization
needs. Soil sample kits including sample bag and
instructions can be obtained from your local county
Agricultural extension service office free of charge.
However, the fee for the actual soil analysis is usually
about $15.00.
Side dress with 2 tablespoon of 13-13-13 balanced fertilizer
per plant in trench when eggplants begin to produce blooms
and again following the first harvest. Time released
fertilizers like Osmocote have become very popular and work
great lasting for 4 months. This additional fertilizer will
supplement the compost or manure at the peak of production.
An organic fertilizer like fish emulsion can be substituted
using bi- weekly.
Hardening Off:
It will be necessary to harden off your seedlings before
transplanting into the garden bed. The seedling must become
accustomed to the harsher elements outdoors. This is
accomplished by placing the seedling outside to a sheltered
location. At this point the seedlings are very tender and
easily broken by wind and rain. Start out by placing the
seedling in full morning sunlight for one hour. Increase the
time in full sunlight gradually adding time each day.
Protect your seedlings from wind and animals to prevent
breakage of the tender vegetation. Within two weeks your
plants should be able to stand full sunlight the entire day
without wilting or burning the tender leaves. At this point
your seedlings are ready for the harsh elements of the
garden.
Planting & Growing:
Transplant after all danger of frost has passed. Water
seedlings well 1 hour before transplanting Water the plants
well during transplanting using about 1 pint of starter
solution on each transplant, or use commercially prepared
starter solution according to manufacturer's instructions.
This can be a weak solution of 20-20-20 general plant food
or commercially available root stimulator. This will
encourage rapid root growth & produce fruit of acceptable
quality. Plant 2 rows of seedlings spaced about 18"
apart in the center of the outside 1/3's of the 36" wide
beds. Plants can be set slightly deeper when transplanting.
Cover the entire 36" wide bed including the trench between
the rows with leaves or straw mulch. The mulch will retain
moisture, attract worms, and reduce the growth of weeds in
the beds. Any weeds that do germinate are easily removed by
hand or light cultivation. Side-dress plants with 1
tablespoon of 13-13-13 fertilizer in the trench between rows
when the plants show first sign of blooming and again
immediately after harvest of the first fruits. When it is
time to water your plants simply apply a moderate amount of
water into the trench between the row you formed earlier. Do
not apply water to quickly as you may wash out soil holding
the water. The water will slowly soak deeply onto the root
zone. Using this method your plants will always have
adequate moisture to perform well. It is of great importance
that the soil be kept moist and weed free.
Care during the growing
season:
Adequate moisture supply is of key importance to eggplant.
Check the moisture of the soil often.
| Pests
& Diseases: |
| |
|
|
Pests |
Flea beetles, Colorado potato
beetles, spider mites, Stink bugs, & tomato
hornworms. The severity of
insect attack is much greater in late crops. It is
suggested that the control program start early
(emerging seedlings) and continued on a regular
basis. Consult your local county extension service
office for diagnosis and recommended treatment. |
|
Diseases |
Fusarium wilt,
Verticillium wilt, blight |
Harvesting:
Harvest the fruit while they are young and immature usually
about 6" long while and glossy. Harvest with a knife or
pruning shears. Do not pull the fruit off as damage may
occur to the plant. Some varieties have sharp thorns on the
stem and calyx, so exercise caution and wear gloves when
harvesting. If the fruit become dull or brown they are over
mature. Over ripe fruit should be discarded or placed in the
compost pile. Eggplants bruise easily so harvest carefully.
Storage:
Eggplant does not store well and should be eaten fresh soon
after harvest. |