Cucumbers

General Information:
Cucumber is a tender warm season crop, which produces an abundance even in small gardens if provide enough growing room and proper growing conditions. Cucumbers do best grown on a trellis. They are enjoyed sliced, in salads, and pickled. They can be started in small pot or sowed directly in the beds after all danger of frost has passed. However I prefer starting early in pots in the greenhouse. With ample soil moister cucumbers will thrive in warm summer climates. A second crop can be grown in mid to later summer.

Soil Preparation:
For best results incorporate moderate amounts of compost or well rotted manure deeply dug into the soil. Beware of fresh manure as it may contain seeds, & high concentrations of urine & salts. Since Cucumbers are shallow rooted plant it is very sensitive to moisture fluctuations.  Without adequate moisture the shallow roots cannot deliver the require nutrients to produce properly. Rake to break up & remove debris from the soil. Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick to garden tools. Form a 36" wide bed the length of your choice. Using a garden hoe form a shallow trench in the center of the 36" wide bed about 4" deep. Do not allow the trench between the 2 rows too extend beyond the end of the beds as this trench will hold water later. The 2 rows in the 36" wide bed should be about 12" to 16" apart.

Seed starting:
A great Cucumber crop begins with large vigorous health seedlings 4 to 6 weeks old, grown in 4" or larger growing pots. Growing your own seedlings insure quality and varieties not commercially available. Cucumber seedling are commonly found commercially if you prefer just buying your seedlings. The seeds should be started about 4 to 6 weeks before your average last frost date in your zone.,  Make sure the seed starting mix is a light sterile soil mix with a liberal portion of Perlite or Vermiculite to maintain moisture. Sow 2 seeds per 4"pot about ½" to ¾" deep in pre-moistened growing mix. During the day, keep the seedling next to a sunny window after they have germinated. Move to top of the water heater or refrigerator at night if you do not have a greenhouse. A heated greenhouse will produce ideal, controllable growing conditions. I also use supplemental overhead florescent lighting when needed. Never allow your lights to burn more than 16 hours per day. A cheap electrical timer is the key to success here. Seedlings must be allowed to have a period of rest from light to grow properly. Hang your lights 1½ inches above the tops of the seedlings. This will prevent the seedling from becoming leggy. Raise the lights suspended by a chain as the plants grow. Do not allow the soil to dry out. I feed my newly emerged seedling every other watering cycle. I prefer feeding my young seedlings with Fish Emulsion or liquid seaweed. After they have grown 2 true leaves I use a fertilizer high in phosphorus like Scotts Peters Professional 9-45-15 plant starter item #91140. Call 1-800-492-8255 for a dealer near you. Fertilize every two weeks until transplant time. Four weeks after seedlings have emerged clip off the smallest of the 2 seedlings with scissors at the soil line. Seeds can also be started by directly sowing into your prepared wide row beds. Plant 2 seed ½" to ¾" deep about 12" apart, separate the two seed by 2" and water gently.

Fertilization:
Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization needs. Soil sample kits including sample bag and instructions can be obtained from your local county Agricultural extension service office free of charge. However, the fee for the actual soil analysis is usually about $15.00.

Side dress with 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate fertilizer per plant when cucumbers begin to produce vines and again upon blooming. This additional fertilizer will supplement the compost or manure at the peak of production. Time released fertilizers like Osmocote have become very popular and work great lasting for 4 months. An organic fertilizer like fish emulsion can be substituted using bi-weekly.

Hardening Off:
It will be necessary to harden off your seedlings before transplanting into the garden bed. The seedling must become accustomed to the harsher elements outdoors. This is accomplished by placing the seedling outside to a sheltered location. At this point the seedlings are very tender and easily broken by wind and rain. Start out by placing the seedling in full morning sunlight for one hour. Increase the time in full sunlight gradually adding time each day. Protect your seedlings from wind and animals to prevent breakage of the tender vegetation. Within two weeks your plants should be able to stand full sunlight the entire day without wilting or burning the tender leaves. At this point your seedlings are ready for the harsh elements of the garden.

Planting & Growing:
Transplant potted seedling or direct sow seed after all danger of frost has passed in the previously prepared 36" wide beds 12" to 16" apart. Plants can be set slightly deeper when transplanting. Water the plants well during transplanting using about 1 pint of starter solution on each transplant, or use commercially prepared starter solution according to manufacturer's instructions. This can be a weak solution of 20-20-20 general plant food or commercially available root stimulator. This will encourage rapid root growth & produce fruit of acceptable quality.  If direct sowing, sow your seed about ¼" to ¾" deep placing 2 seeds per hole with individual seed separated by 2".  Keep the soil moist to help prevent crusting of the surface. After the seeds have germinated and grown to the height of about 4" start constructing your trellis. A trellis can be easily constructed using old fencing, bamboo cane, or orange plastic construction barricade fencing stretched between T-posts. The trellis can be of the single vertical type placed above the trench between the rows in the 36" wide beds, or of the A frame design across the 2 rows within the 36"wide beds.  A trellis will produce straighter & cleaner cucumbers and allows easier harvest. Fewer fruit will be missed if grown on a trellis. After constructing the trellis cover the entire 36" wide bed including the trench between the rows with leaves or straw mulch. The mulch will retain moisture, attract worms, and reduce the growth of weeds in the beds. Any weeds that do germinate are easily removed by hand or light cultivation. Side-dress plants with 1 tablespoon of 13-131-13 fertilizer in the trench between rows when the plants show first sign of blooming and again immediately after harvest of the first fruits. When it is time to water your plants simply apply a moderate amount of water into the trench between the row you formed earlier. Do not apply water to quickly as you may wash out soil holding the water. The water will slowly soak deeply onto the root zone. Using this method your plants will always have adequate moisture to perform well. It is of great importance that the soil be kept moist and weed free.

Care during the growing season:
Cucumber plants are shallow rooted plants requiring amply even moisture throughout the growing season. Failure to provide the required moisture when fruit begin to set will not produce properly. Keep all weeds removed throughout the growing season as cucumbers cannot compete with them.
 

Harvesting:
Harvesting can start anytime fruit is large enough to use but best harvested early in the morning.. They should be plump, firm and and dark green. Smaller fruit are usually more juicy and flavorful than larger ones. If a cucumber begins to turn yellow it is over mature. Over mature fruit will be bitter and thick skinned. All mature fruit must be removed from the vine otherwise production will stop.

Storage:
Cucumbers can be stored in the refrigerator for a week or more but best eaten freshly picked. Cucumbers can be pickled for long-term storage and use. Besides pickling, there is no practical way to preserve cucumbers. However there are many ways to make a pickle.

My favorite Pickle Recipe:
Recipe from Meal-Master™ v8.03