Black Gold for your Soil !!

General Information:
Composting is the single most important activity for successful gardening. Vegetation and animal manures decompose with the help of bacteria, fungi, & other microorganisms. The result is a rich earthy layer of pure organic magic. Compost attracts the mighty, sought after earthworm which in sufficient numbers make our work much easier. It also encourages the growth of beneficial microorganisms which greatly help the development of stronger, healthier plants. It provides needed nutrients and improves the soil ability to nourish your growing plants. It promotes better drainage in heavy clay soil allows sandy soils to retain needed moisture. Compost is actually organic slow release fertilizer. In addition composting relieves some of the pressure on overburdening the landfill.

How to make Compost:
Making compost can be a as easy or hard is you want it to be.  Compost will actually make itself if given enough time. There are many ways to produce acceptable compost. It can be made in a bin, a tumbler, windrows, Lasagna  Sheet Composting also known as "Interbay Mulch", garbage can composter (with holes), plastic bag composters, cinder block containment bins, heaps, or pits. All methods require good drainage. The ideal minimum size for a compost pile is a cubic yard (3 ft. by 3 ft. by 3 ft.).  Position the compost pile where it will be protected from drying winds in the winter, and hot, direct sunlight in the summer.  If a sunny spot is used cover the pile with an opaque plastic tarp to minimize drying. This will increase the temperature and aid in killing weed seed and pathogens, accelerating the process. In addition a cover will provide protection from soaking rains which can sour a pile ,and maintain the proper moisture content.

The basic ingredients used to produce compost are organic matter that go into the building of a compost pile.

1. Materials containing high in carbon known as browns. Consisting of woody dry materials such as dry grass clippings, dry leaves, woodchip, sawdust straw, hay, rice hulls, shredded newspaper, dry corn cobs and corn stalks . Older more mature material is higher in carbon content. Anything that once growing was vegetation.

2. Materials high in nitrogen content known as greens. Consisting of green, wet materials like fresh grass clippings, kitchen wastes, fresh green weeds, kitchen vegetable waste, shredded newspaper, green vegetable garden waste and manures. The greener the material, the higher the nitrogen content. Anything once vegetation still containing its moisture. Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer can also be used as a nitrogen substitute @ 1 cup per square yard of carbon materials.

3. Do not compost meat scraps and fatty foods, excessive wood ash, sawdust in large quantities. Fresh animal manure should be allowed to age in the elements, too wash excessive salts and urine from the contents before adding to the compost pile.

High carbon browns ingredients are usually most readily available for composting. To ensure the proper balance of materials it is critical  to match the percentages of carbons to green in the appropriate ratio. The mixture should be mixed at approximately 30 to 1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. The most efficient decomposition requires an adequate supply of oxygen and the correct amount of moisture. The first technique is to construct your compost pile in layer cake fashion to provide good ventilation and drainage. begin your pile by selecting a good permanent location. The pile should be located on high ground to allow proper drainage. Till the soil where the pile will be placed to make it inviting to worms. Start layering the pile with  with course woody material such as small sticks or twigs. ( Don't worry they will rot. ) The second technique is to turn the compost pile periodically - once or twice a month.  By thoroughly turning the pile inside out, you guarantee a sufficient supply of oxygen and the composting process is accelerated. In a well-built and aerated compost pile, the process of decay generates a lot of heat,  up to 150°F (66°C).  This high heat is crucial for killing any weed seeds and pathogens and for accelerating the decay process. Monitor the temperature of the compost pile with a compost thermometer. Turn the pile after the temperature has peaked and has begun to cool down. Water is also vital to a compost pile, because the microorganisms in the pile depend upon it for their metabolism.  A compost pile that is too dry will not break down efficiently; a compost pile that is too wet will interfere with oxygen availability and become anaerobic.  As you construct the compost pile, dampen each layer; as a rule of thumb, the compost should have the feel of a damp sponge. If water drips out of it when squeezed, you have too much water. Wet leaves or green kitchen scraps, may be wet initially, and do not need additional watering.  Continue adding materials as they become available.

Compost bins:
The most common method of composting is produced in a composting bin. The bin can be any large container which allows drainage and aeration of the components. It can be made of wood, plastic or metal wire. I would advise caution using pressure treated lumber in the construction of your compost bin. Pressure treated lumber is treated with arsenic, over time it will leach into you compost and soil. Old discarded oak pallets work very well. They can be easily nailed or wired together. Metal wire with small holes is by far the material of choice for bin construction. Mine is constructed from concrete reinforcement wire covered with chicken wire shown above.

Tumblers:
Compost tumblers are much easier to manage the moisture & oxygen content and much less labor intensive. Commercial tumbler are available but a bit pricy in my opinion. Tumbler will also produce compost several time faster than the other two methods mentioned. my tumbler will produce 3 batches per year with great success. My tumbler is constructed from two 55 gallon barrels welded together. Mounted on a pressure treated lumber frame which allows easy turning. However it would work just as well if rolled across the ground. See image above.

Heaps:
Heap ccomposting is simply composting without a enclosed structure. Mine is enclosed on three side with chicken wire to keep it in place. Organic material can be added as it becomes available. For best composition the pile should now exceed 4 feet tall when started. The length can be a long as you desire. I do not turn this pile as it is used from mulch and adding to the other two composters. It is positioned under a large Oak tree which keep it moist at all time. I usually use my leaf shredder to shred the leaves for covering my bedding plants and flower beds.

Garbage can composter:
A garbage-can composter is inexpensive and easy to build. However, the disadvantage of a garbage can composter is that the materials within the unit are difficult to turn. For best composition place both brown and greens in the can. To each batch add 1 cup of ammonium nitrate fertilizer and  ¼ cup of hydrated lime. The lime will counteract the acidity which will occur within the can Moisten the contents as filled, seal the can and allow to sit for 1 year. You can pour the contents on a sheet of plastic to mix twice a month. Then place the contents back in the can. occasionally to keep the ingredients active. Place the can in the sun to absorb heat. In winter move the can to a warm garage or basement. This method requires patients. Check moisture content often as the content dry quickly.

Plastic bag composting:
Plastic bag composting is perhaps the simplest method of composting requiring no structure other than a black plastic bag. The bags should be  at least 30 to 40 gal. and at least 3 ml. thick. This bag will hold about 3 bushels of organic matter. For best composition place both brown and greens in the bag. To each bag add 1 cup of ammonium nitrate fertilizer and  ¼ cup of hydrated lime. The lime will counteract the acidity which will occur within the bag. Then add about 1 qt. of water, seal the bag and allow to sit for 1 year. You can roll the bag occasionally to keep the ingredients active. Place the bag in the sun to absorb heat. In winter move the bag to a warm garage or basement. This method requires patients.

Lasagna or sheet composting:
Also known as "Interbay Mulch". This involves putting the materials directly on the beds to be enriched. This is a very simple  method. There are many folks just discovering and improving" on this method that has been called a number of things in the past. Start by applying several layers of common black and white newspaper on top of your beds. Layer a mix of greens and browns as if making lasagna and let it sit and decompose in place. Thoroughly water the bed and cover the entire bed with 6 ml black plastic. Hold the plastic down with bricks or stakes. The plastic will solorize the soil in the process. Solorization of soil is the process of destroying insects, plant diseases, nematodes, harmful fungi, and weed seeds. The temperature will rise to 150°, 12" to 16" deep. This must be done in mid summer to allow enough heat to do the job. This is a great method of putting vegetable beds "to sleep" for the season ensuring a rich fertile bed for the next seasons planting.  You can also use this method to prep grassy areas and transform them to planting beds. When you pull back the plastic in spring the soil in your beds will be warm and ready work and  plant. 

Avoid Using Compost Before It Is Ready:
Do not use incomplete compost as a soil conditioner before it is ready. If the organic materials have not completely decomposed the plants growing in the amended soil may do poorly and become stressed, As the decomposition process continues. The incomplete compost will leach the nitrogen you intended for you plants. Compost is usually considered finished when the contents are no longer recognizable.  Finished compost should have a dark, crumbly earthy odor.

Using compost:
Spread an inch or two over the planting area and mix into the top six to eight inches of soil. Do not place compost in individual planting holes it may act like a sponge, holding excess moisture discouraging roots growth away from the plants base.  Compost will slowly release nutrients to the plants while protecting roots from temperature fluctuations. Avoid disturbing or injuring the roots of established plants when adding compost.

Mulching with Fall Leaves:
Do as mother nature does, use leaves to mulch all your vegetable and flower beds in addition to composting them,  Mulches help hold moisture in our soils and prevent wet and dry fluctuations in soil moisture. They discourage weed growth and soil borne diseases in and around beds. They also help insulate the soil and protect the roots from intense summer heat and winter blasts. I prefer  Shredded leaves as they stay seated better on the surface as apposed to whole  leaves. They don't blow  away as easily.  If you don't have a shredder, use a lawn mower to chop up your leaves.

Compost tea:
Compost can be made into a liquid plant food or foliar feed. Compost Tea is a naturally rich, well-balanced, organic plant food made by steeping aged compost in water. Once your compost is made, simply obtain a large container like a barrel or large leak-proof garbage can with a lid. Place the compost in a bag constructed from burlap, cheese cloth or legs of old panty hose which will allow water to freely flow through the bag and compost. Loosely fill the bag with compost and tie the opening securely. This can be accomplished by simply tying the burlap bag closed with a ¼" cord 4' long allowing the end to hang outside of the container. Use the cord to pull the compost filled bag up-and-down in the water to forge water to freely flow into the compost and mix the contents. place the compost filled bag into your container and fill with water. place the filled container in full sun and allow to steep for 2 week. This steeping time is crucial to the formation of beneficial bacteria and the required fermentation process. Agitate the contents daily to allow completed saturation of the compost.  Keep the container covered preventing it from overflowing in case of a unexpected rain and evaporating from exposure to the sun. The bag containing the compost should occupy about ¼ of the total volume of the of the container. After the mixture has steeped for 2 weeks or more remove the liquid dip out and dilute at the rate of 3 parts water to 1 part tea with clear water. The compost teas can then be used as a weekly root feed or foliar spray. When all the liquid is used refill the container and start the process all over. The bag filled with compost can be reused many times. Foliar spraying should be done late in the day.

It should be noted that manure tea and compost tea are not the same, although made the same way. Manure teas are not recommended as a foliar feed. However manure teas make a great root feeding supplement.