Carrots

General Information:
Carrots are viewed by Most  as orange and preventing night blindness due to there of vitamin C content. Both of these facts are technically incorrect. However, Carrots were formerly every color but orange, at one time they were red, black, yellow, white and especially purple. First cultivated in Afghanistan in the 7th century, carrots originally were purple  and yellow flesh.  The Dutch developed the bright orange carrot In the Middle Ages, now know as the of carotene storehouse.

Due to the natural sweetness carrots have been eaten raw or used for desserts, candies, cakes, cookies, & puddings.  Two billion pounds of carrots are grown annually in this country alone, mainly in California, Texas, Minnesota, & Wisconsin.

Soil Preparation:
For best results incorporate moderate amounts of compost or well rotted manure deeply dug into the soil.  Beware of fresh manure as it may contain seeds, & high concentrations of urine & salts. Rake to break up & remove debris from the soil. Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick to garden tools. Using a garden hoe form a shallow trench in the center of the 36" wide bed about 4" deep. Do not allow the trench between the 2 rows too extend beyond the end of the beds as this trench will hold water later.  Carrots do best in loose, sandy loam soils with lots of organic matter which are well drained. Carrots grown In heavy clay or rocky soils mature slower and the roots are usually rough, stubby and unattractive. Work  the soil 8-12 inches deep.  Rake to break up & remove debris from the soil. Smooth the soil and work it up into 36" wide beds. Deep wide  Beds allow good movement of air and water through the soil.

Fertilization:
Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization needs.  Soil sample kits including sample bag and instructions can be  obtained from your local county  Agricultural extension service office free of charge. However, the fee  for the actual soil analysis is usually about $15.00.

Scatter 1 cup of complete fertilizer such as 10-20-10 on the soil for each 100 square feet of row to be planted. Using a garden rake, work the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 3-4 inches. Alternative organic fertilizers may also be used. Compost or manure teas work very effectively. Carrots benefit from side dressing with bone meal as well after they have mature enough to be thinned out.

Planting & Growing:
Begin planting carrots as soon as the soil can be worked in the fall. In many South Texas areas carrots can be grown all winter.  Sow 2  rows on each side of the  36" wide beds spaced 1" apart.  This will give  you with 2, 12" wide rows to plant 2 rows of carrots each.  Carrot seed are very tiny and hard to hand sow evenly. I use an old used medicine bottle with a few hole drilled into the cap slightly larger than the seed.  I use a 8' long 1" by 1" wooden slat to make a shallow planting  groove in the soil. Hold the slat with the pointed corner edges of the slat up and down. Gently press the pointed edge of the slat into the soil about ¼" to ½" deep into the soil. (This procedure is best accomplished with an assistant.)  I simply sprinkle the seed  with the shaker bottle described above. Try to sprinkle the seed as evenly and thinly as possible between 2 boards laid on both sides of the row spaced 1" apart over the shallow planting groove describe above.    Since carrot seeds require 14-21 days to sprout, I  mix a few radish seeds with the carrot seeds.  Radishes will sprout quickly marking the location of your carrot rows. Cover the seeds lightly with vermiculite or sand. Cover the seeds very gently. Carefully water rows with a fine gentle mist. Sprinkle the row with water often to prevent crusting.  Thin carrot plants to 2 inches apart when tops are 4 inches high. Do not pull out the extra seedlings. Clip the extras with scissors at ground level. Pulling the extra seedling will disturb the roots of the keepers. Thin the carrots to 3"  apart as they continue to grow as some carrots grow very large. Overcrowding and rocky soils result in poor quality roots. If radishes were mixed with the carrots, pull and eat them as they mature, if there removal doesn't damage the carrot seedlings.  Then  cover the entire 36" wide bed  & the shallow trenches with 2" to 3" of leaves or straw. This will conserve moisture attract worms and reduce the growth of weeds in the beds. Any weeds that do germinate are easily removed be hand or light cultivation.  When it is time to water your plants simply apply a moderate amount of water into the trench between the row you formed earlier.  Do not apply water to quickly as you may wash out  soil holding the water. The water will slowly soak deeply onto the root zone.  Using this method your plants will always have adequate moisture to perform well.

Care during the growing season:
After  seedlings have been thinned to 3" the final time, side dress the rows with ½ cup of 13-131-13 fertilizer between the rows in the trench per 10' of row. Keep carrots free of weeds especially when they are small. 

Harvesting:
Carrots should be ready for harvest 70-80 days after planting. Pull them when the roots are 1-1 1/2 inches in diameter. Loosen the soil around the carrot with a garden fork to avoid breaking the carrot while pulling. To prevent roots from wilting after harvest, remove carrot tops and place the tops in the compost pile.

Storage:
Wash carrots and store in the bottom of the refrigerator. Place them in a plastic bag for increased humidity. Carrots will keep several weeks with high humidity and a temperature near 32 degrees.

Data courtesy of  The Texas Agricultural Extension Service and Cornell University.