|
Brussels Sprouts
|
Sowing depth |
Germination
soil temp. |
Day's to
germination |
Sow indoors |
Sow outdoors |
|
¼" |
75 to 85º F |
5 to 7 |
4-6 weeks before
last frost
for spring harvest
4 - 6 week before first frost
for fall winter harvest |
4-6 weeks before
last frost
for spring harvest
4 -6 weeks before first frost
for fall/winter harvest |
|
Soil PH |
Growing soil temp. |
Plant spacing |
Light Requirement |
Seed longevity |
|
6.0 to 7.5 |
60 to 65º F |
12" to 18" ,2 rows
in 36" wide beds |
Full sun
|
4 years,
refrigerated |
General Information:
Brussels
sprouts are a really interesting vegetable to grow. The
heads grow on the main stem and can be eaten anytime mature
enough to harvest. Brussels sprouts are one of the hardiest
plant in the garden. They will actually taste better if
subjected to frost and light snow. For this reason gardeners
in the north have an advantage over us southern gardeners.
For this reason I only grow Brussels sprouts in the
fall. Brussels sprouts will grow to 2' to 3' tall with
adequate cultural practices. Brussels sprout are shallow
rooted and require above average nitrogen and significant
boron content for a great harvest very similar to cabbage
and broccoli. Soil Ph is also of great importance for this
vegetable. The "sprouts" (small heads that resemble
miniature cabbages) are produced in the leaf axils, starting
at the base of the stem and working upward. Brussels sprouts
require a long growing period, though newer hybrids have
greatly reduced this requirement. In all but the most
northern states, summers are usually too warm for completely
satisfactory production from spring plantings. Plants set
out in late spring to early summer grow satisfactorily and
mature high-quality sprouts when the fall weather begins to
cool.
Soil Preparation:
For best results incorporate moderate amounts of compost or
well rotted manure deeply dug into the soil. Beware of fresh
manure as it may contain seeds, & high concentrations of
urine & salts. Using a garden hoe form a shallow trench in
the center of the 36" wide bed about 4" deep. Do not allow
the trench between the 2 rows too extend beyond the end of
the beds as this trench will hold water later. The 2 rows
in the 36" wide bed should be about 12" apart. Since
Brussels sprouts are a shallow rooted plant it is very
sensitive to moisture fluctuations. Without adequate
moisture the shallow roots cannot deliver the required
nutrients to produce properly. Rake to break up & remove
debris from the soil. Work the soil only when it is dry
enough not to stick to garden tools. Soils that are
well-suited for the production of Brussels sprouts are
fertile, well drained, and have texture ranging from sandy
loam to clay loam.
Seed starting:
A great Brussels sprouts crop
begins with large vigorous health seedlings 4 to 6 weeks
old, grown in 4" or larger growing pots. Growing your own
seedlings insure quality and varieties not commercially
available. Brussels sprouts seedling are commonly found
commercially if you prefer just buying your seedlings. The
seeds should be started about 4 to 6 weeks before your
average last frost date in your zone, or 4 to 6 weeks before
your last frost date for a early spring crop. Make sure the
seed starting mix is a light sterile soil mix with a liberal
portion of Perlite or Vermiculite to maintain moisture. Sow
2 seeds per 4"pot about ¼" deep in pre-moistened growing
mix. Fill the growing pot to within 1" of the top of the
pot. Add and additional ½" of soil as they mature for better
root formation. During the day, keep the seedling next to a
sunny window after they have germinated. Move to top of the
water heater or refrigerator at night if you do not have a
greenhouse. A heated greenhouse will produce ideal,
controllable growing conditions. I also use supplemental
overhead florescent lighting when needed. Never allow your
lights to burn more than 16 hours per day. A cheap
electrical timer is the key to success here. Seedlings must
be allowed to have a period of rest from light to grow
properly. Hang your lights 1½ inches above the tops of the
seedlings. This will prevent the seedling from becoming
leggy. Raise the lights suspended by a chain as the plants
grow. Do not allow the soil to dry out. I feed my newly
emerged seedling every other watering cycle. I prefer
feeding my young seedlings with Fish Emulsion or liquid
seaweed. After they have grown 2 true leaves I use a
fertilizer high in phosphorus like Scotts Peters
Professional 9-45-15 plant starter item #91140. Call
1-800-492-8255 for a dealer near you. Fertilize every two
weeks until transplant time. Four weeks after seedlings have
emerged clip off at the soil line the smallest of the 2
seedlings with scissors.
Fertilization:
Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization
needs. Soil sample kits including sample bag and
instructions can be obtained from your local county
Agricultural extension service office free of charge.
However the fee for the actual soil analysis is usually
about $15.00.
Generally apply about ½ cup of ammonium nitrate fertilizer
for each 10 feet of 36" wide bed. This should be applied and
worked into the soil 3" deep about one week before the
plants are set. Brussels sprouts plants are shallow rooted
heavy feeders requiring ample, even supplies nutrients
including Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potash, & Boron. It is
always wise to follow a nitrogen fixing crop such as beans
, hairy vetch, rye or buck wheat if possible. Time released
fertilizers like Osmocote have become very popular and work
great lasting for 4 months. An organic fertilizer such as
fish emulsion can be used bi-weekly.
Hardening Off:
It will be necessary to harden off your seedlings before
transplanting into the garden bed. The seedling must become
accustomed to the harsher elements outdoors. This is
accomplished by placing the seedling outside to a sheltered
location. At this point the seedlings are very tender and
easily broken by wind and rain. Start out by placing the
seedling in full morning sunlight for one hour. Increase the
time in full sunlight gradually adding time each day.
Protect your seedlings from wind and animals to prevent
breakage of the tender vegetation. Within two weeks your
plants should be able to stand full sunlight the entire day
without wilting or burning the tender leaves. At this point
your seedlings are ready for the harsh elements of the
garden.
Planting & Growing:
Transplant 2 rows of seedlings spaced about 12" to 18"
apart in the center of the rows formed earlier. Plants can
be set slightly deeper when transplanting. Water the
seedlings well in growing pot 1 hour before transplanting.
Water the plants well during transplanting using about 1
pint of starter solution on each transplant, or use
commercially prepared starter solution according to
manufacturer's instructions. This can be a weak solution
of 20-20-20 general plant food or commercially available
root stimulator. This will encourage rapid root growth &
produce sprouts of acceptable quality. To lengthen the
harvest plant seedling plant 1/3 at a time 1 weeks apart.
This procedure will also require starting your seedlings 1
week apart as well. Cover the entire 36" wide bed
including the trench between the rows with leaves or straw
mulch. The mulch will retain moisture, attract worms, and
reduce the growth of weeds in the beds. Any weeds that do
germinate are easily removed by hand or light cultivation.
When it is time to water your plants simply apply a
moderate amount of water into the trench between the row you
formed earlier. Do not apply water to quickly as you may
wash out soil holding the water. The water will slowly soak
deeply onto the root zone. Using this method your plants
will always have adequate moisture to perform well. Be
prepared to irrigate 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week if
natural rainfall is lacking to help ensure a high-quality
crop. Brussels sprouts requires above average moisture, and
when this is lacking it responds with slow growth and poor
appearance. Excessive rainfall will present a problem as
Brussels sprouts don't like to stand in water for prolonged
periods causing root rot.
Direct Seeding:
Seeds can also be started by directly sowing into your
prepared wide row beds. I do not recommend direct seeding
into the garden. Starting seedling in pots affords better
control of the elements when seedling are young and tender.
Plant 2 seed ¼" deep about 4" apart and water gently. Four
weeks after seedling have emerged thin the seedlings to
16". Clip the smallest one at ground level with scissors.
Brussels sprouts are sometime difficult to germinate when
direct seeding . Monitor insects closely during this time.
| Pests
& Diseases: |
| |
|
|
Pests |
Aphids, cabbage
loppers, cabbage root maggots. diamondback moth,
flea beetles, imported cabbageworm, the cabbage
webworm, and the corn earworm are commonly found
feeding on leaves and stems. |
|
Diseases |
Black rot, club
root, Powdery and downy mildew, white mold. Do not
place Brussels sprouts roots in the compost pile.
The severity of insect attack is much greater in
fall crops. It is suggested that the control program
start early (emerging seedlings) and continued on a
regular basis. Consult your local county extension
service office for diagnosis and recommended
treatment. |
Harvesting:
Brussels sprouts should be harvested in the early morning
assuring peek flavor. The mature head should be cut as
needed to prevent spoilage. The small sprouts or buds form
heads one to two inches in diameter. They may be picked (or
cut) off the stem when they are firm and about one inch in
size. The lower sprouts mature first.
Yield:
Sprouts will vary in size, depending on variety, spacing and
growing conditions.
Storage:
The fresher the sprouts, the
better the flavor, so refrigerator storage should not exceed
a day or two. Remove any damaged or irregular outer leaves
and store fresh in a plastic bags in the vegetable bin of
the refrigerator. |