|
Broccoli
|
Sowing depth |
Germination soil temp. |
Day's to germination |
Sow indoors |
Sow outdoors |
|
¼" |
80º F |
4 to 7 |
6 to 8 week before last frost |
Mid to late summer for fall crop |
|
Soil PH |
Growing soil temp. |
Plant spacing |
Light Requirement |
Seed longevity |
|
6.0 to 7.0 |
60 to 65º F |
12 to 18" , 3 rows
in 36" wide beds |
Full sun
|
3 years,
refrigerated |
General
Information:
Broccoli is a cool-season crop,
closely related to cabbage, cauliflower, kale, and mustard.
It can be grown as either a spring or a fall crop. Broccoli
is a high-quality vegetable for fresh use and is one of the
more popular frozen vegetables. Broccoli is highly
nutritious and has been deemed an anti-cancerous food by the
American Cancer Society. This vegetable is a good source of
Vitamin A, calcium, and riboflavin (or vitamin B2). The
edible portion of the broccoli plant consists of the tender
stem and the unopened flower buds. Sprouting broccoli should
not be confused with broccoli-raab (or Italian turnip),
which is grown for early leafy greens and with much smaller
flower shoots.
Soil Preparation
For best results incorporate moderate amounts of compost or
well rotted manure deeply dug into the soil. Beware of fresh
manure as it may contain seeds, & high concentrations of
urine & salts. Rake to break up & remove debris from the
soil. Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick
to garden tools. Soils that are well-suited for the
production of broccoli are fertile, well drained, and have
texture ranging from sandy loam to clay loam. Soil pH should
be 6.0 to 7.0. Lime according to soil test recommendation.
Organic soil does not require a high Ph. broccoli plants are
shallow rooted heavy feeders requiring ample, even supplies
nutrients including Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potash, & Boron.
Using a garden hoe form a shallow trench in the center of
the 36" wide bed about 4" deep. Do not allow the trench
between the 2 rows too extend beyond the end of the beds as
this trench will hold water later. The 2 rows in the 36"
wide bed should be about 12" apart. Since broccoli is a
shallow rooted plant it is very sensitive to moisture
fluctuations. Without adequate moisture the shallow
roots cannot deliver the require nutrients to produce
properly. Rake to break up & remove debris from the soil.
Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick to
garden tools. Soils that are well-suited for the production
of cabbage are fertile, well drained, and have texture
ranging from sandy loam to clay loam.
Seed starting
A great Broccoli crop begins with large vigorous health
seedlings 4 to 6 weeks old, grown in 4" or larger growing
pots. Growing your own seedlings insure quality and
varieties not commercially available. Broccoli seedling are
commonly found commercially if you prefer just buying your
seedlings. The seeds should be started about 6 to 8 weeks
before your average last frost date in your zone, or 6 to 8
weeks before your last frost date for a early spring crop.
Make sure the seed starting mix is a light sterile soil mix
with a liberal portion of Perlite or Vermiculite to maintain
moisture. Sow 2 seeds per 4"pot about ¼" deep in
pre-moistened growing mix. During the day, keep the seedling
next to a sunny window after they have germinated. Move to
top of the water heater or refrigerator at night if you do
not have a greenhouse. A heated greenhouse will produce
ideal, controllable growing conditions. I also use
supplemental overhead florescent lighting when needed. Never
allow your lights to burn more than 16 hours per day. A
cheap electrical timer is the key to success here. Seedlings
must be allowed to have a period of rest from light to grow
properly. Hang your lights 1½ inches above the tops of the
seedlings. This will prevent the seedling from becoming
leggy. Raise the lights suspended by a chain as the plants
grow. Do not allow the soil to dry out. I feed my newly
emerged seedling every other watering cycle. I prefer
feeding my young seedlings with Fish Emulsion or liquid
seaweed. After they have grown 2 true leaves I use a
fertilizer high in phosphorus like Scotts Peters
Professional 9-45-15 plant starter item #91140. Call
1-800-492-8255 for a dealer near you. Fertilize every two
weeks until transplant time. Four weeks after seedlings have
emerged clip off at the soil line the smallest of the 2
seedlings with scissors. Seeds can also be started by
directly sowing into your prepared wide row beds. Plant 2
seed ¼" deep about 16" apart and water gently. Four weeks
after seedling have emerged thin the seedlings to one
seedling per hill. Clip the smallest one at ground level
with scissors.
Fertilization
Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization
needs. Soil sample kits including sample bag and
instructions can be obtained from your local county
Agricultural extension service office free of charge.
However, the fee for the actual soil analysis is usually
about $15.00.
Pay particular attention to the elements, Nitrogen,
Phosphorus, Potash & Boron. Without boron, small buds,
hollow pithy stems with internal brown discoloration, and
low yields can result. It is always wise to follow a
nitrogen fixing crop such as beans , hairy vetch, rye or
buck wheat, Generally broadcast about 5 pounds of 5-10-10
fertilizer for each 100 square feet of area. This should be
applied and worked into the soil about one week before the
plants are set. Time released fertilizers like Osmocote have
become very popular and work great lasting for 4 months. If
your prefer growing organically use fish emulsion bi-weekly.
Hardening Off
It will be necessary to harden off your seedlings before
transplanting into the garden bed. The seedling must become
accustomed to the harsher elements outdoors. This is
accomplished by placing the seedling outside to a sheltered
location. At this point the seedlings are very tender and
easily broken by wind and rain. Start out by placing the
seedling in full morning sunlight for one hour. Increase the
time in full sunlight gradually adding time each day.
Protect your seedlings from wind and animals to prevent
breakage of the tender vegetation. Within two weeks your
plants should be able to stand full sunlight the entire day
without wilting or burning the tender leaves. At this point
your seedlings are ready for the harsh elements of the
garden.
Planting & Growing
Transplant 2 rows of seedlings spaced about 12" to 18" apart
in the center of the outside 1/3 of the 36" wide beds.
Plants can be set slightly deeper when transplanting. Water
the seedlings well 1 hour before transplanting. Water the
plants well during transplanting using about 1 pint of
starter solution on each transplant, or use commercially
prepared starter solution according to manufacturer's
instructions. This can be a weak solution of 20-20-20
general plant food or commercially available root
stimulator. This will encourage rapid root growth & produce
heads of acceptable quality. Large head hybrid varieties
should be spaced further apart to promote larger head size.
To lengthen the harvest plant seedling 1/3 at a time 2 weeks
apart. (This procedure will also require starting your
seedlings 1 week apart as well. ) Start planting in middle
of rows running east & west until both side of the bed is
filled. This procedure will prevent excessive shading of the
smaller seedlings. When seedling have doubled in size from
transplanting pull about 1" of loose soil from between the 2
rows hilling up on the plants. leaving a shallow trench
between the 2 rows. Do not form the trench beyond the end of
each 36" wide bed so the trench will hold water. This
procedure accomplishes 2 important factors. The soil hilled
up on the plants in row provide additional soil around the
root zone and the shallow trench provides a reservoir to
irrigate the roots deeply. The above described procedure is
very important. Then cover the entire 36"wide bed & the
shallow trenches with 2" to 3" of leaves or straw. This will
conserve moisture and reduce the growth of weeds in the
beds. Any weeds that do germinate are easily removed by hand
or light cultivation. When it is time to water your plants,
simply apply a moderate amount of water into the trench
between the row you formed earlier. Do not apply water to
quickly as you may wash out soil holding the water. The
water will slowly soak deeply onto the root zone. Using this
method your plants will always have adequate moisture to
perform well. Be prepared to irrigate 1 to 1 1/2 inches of
water per week if natural rainfall is lacking to help ensure
a high-quality a broccoli crop. Broccoli requires above
average moisture, and when this is lacking it responds with
slow growth and poor appearance.
Direct Seeding
Row spacing are similar to
transplanting but in-row spacing should be reduced to 4 to 6
inches. Sow seeds ¼" to ½" deep and irrigate frequently to
keep surface moist until plants are established. Monitor
insects closely during this time. Thin seedlings to 12" to
18" to allow adequate growing space. I do not recommend this
method of starting broccoli, transplanted seedling is my
method of choice.
| Pests
& Diseases: |
| |
|
|
Pests |
Cabbage loppers,
the imported cabbage worm, the diamondback moth, the
cabbage webworm, flea beetles, aphids, root maggots
and the corn earworm are commonly found feeding on
leaves and stems. |
|
Diseases |
Alternaria leaf
spot, black rot, club root, powdery and downy
mildew, soft rot and white mold. The severity of
insect attack is much greater in fall crops. It is
suggested that the control program start early
(emerging seedlings) and continued on a regular
basis. Contact your local county Agricultural
extension service office for diagnosis and treatment
recommendations. |
Harvesting
Broccoli should be harvested in the early morning, because
it wilts very rapidly in the sun. The broccoli head should
be cut before the flower buds open. If the buds begin to
open and the yellow flower petals begin to show, the head is
over-mature and unfit for market. Cut the heads with a
length of 6" to 8" inches long. The central heads vary from
4" to 10" inches in diameter. A few days after the central
head is cut, small lateral, or side, shoots grow out and
produce small heads measuring 1 to 3 inches in diameter.
These side shoots are seldom of the quality of the central
heads. Small heads produced by the side shoots are very
desirable for freezing and use in the home. Light frosts do
not hurt broccoli appreciably; therefore, harvest in the
fall generally continues until the first hard freeze.
Yield
Central heads will vary in size, depending on variety,
spacing and growing conditions. The central head weights
will range from 0.3 to 1.0 lb each, while side shoots will
average between 0.1 to 0.3 lb. A bed containing 2o plant
will feed an entire family for a season.
Varieties
|
Name |
Type |
|
Baccus |
Early |
|
Green Comet |
Early (home garden/pick your own) |
|
Early Dawn |
Early |
|
Galleon |
Early |
|
Packman |
Early |
|
Emperor |
Midseason |
|
Legend |
Midseason |
|
Mariner |
Midseason |
|
Premium Crop |
Midseason |
|
Green Duke |
Midseason |
|
Arcadia |
Late |
|
Green Valiant |
Late |
|
Green Defender |
Late |
|
Southern Comet |
Single Head |
|
Decathlon |
Late |
|
Marathon |
Late |
Storage
Broccoli can be easily frozen for later use. Simply discard
the large leaves and tough stalks. Wash well and soak, head
down, in salted water (4 teaspoons of salt to one gallon of
cold water) for about one-half hour. Split lengthwise so
heads are not more than 1½ inches across. Scald in boiling
water for four minutes, drain, pack in containers, and
freeze at once. |