Melons

Quick Grower’s Guide
Sowing Depth	½ to ¾”
Plant Spacing	12″ to 16″ apart in large beds/patches
Germination Soil Temp.	80° – 90º F (26.7° – 32.2° C)
Day’s to Germination	3 to 5
Sow Indoors	Three to four weeks before last frost
Sow Outdoors	After last frost; soil temp > 70º F (21.1º C)
Growing Soil Temps	70º – 85º F (21.1º – 29.5º C)
Soil pH	6 – 7
Light Requirement	Full Sun
Seed Longevity	4 years, refrigerated

General Information:

Melons are perhaps my favorite summer crop to eat. I suppose this is because of the high temperature we endure every summer. Melons of all kinds including cantaloupes, muskmelons, pumpkins and watermelons are typically grow the same. Melon are hot weather lovers. They don’t do as well in northern climates without special cultural practices. Melons can be grown in all parts of the country, but the warmer temperatures and longer growing season of the  south especially favor this vegetable. Gardeners in northern areas should start  transplant seedlings early.  Sow seed about ½” to ¾”  deep in loose sterile soil less mix. Mulching with black plastic film several weeks before sowing or transplanting seedlings promotes warming the soil for a fast start. Floating row covers moderate temperatures around the young plants, providing some frost protection in unseasonable cold weather. Melons are a little picky about soil fertility, PH and consistent moisture requirements. Soil should be slightly sandy or well drained.

There are many varieties to chose from to suit you individual taste.

Soil Preparation:

For best results incorporate moderate amounts of compost or well rotted manure deeply dug into the soil.  Beware of fresh manure as it may contain seeds, & high concentrations of urine & salts.  Melons are moderately deep rooted plant but sensitive to moisture fluctuations. Without adequate moisture the roots  cannot deliver the require nutrients to produce properly. This is particularly true during prolonged droughts. However melons do not like there roots soaking in water for prolonged periods.  Rake to break up & remove debris from the soil. Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick to garden tools.  Form a 36″ wide bed the length of your choice. Using a garden hoe form a shallow trench in the center of the 36″ wide bed about 4″ deep. Do not allow the trench between the 2 rows too extend beyond the end of the beds as this trench will hold water later.  The 2 rows in the 36″ wide bed should be about 12″ to 16″ apart. I always amend my soil with Diazinon  granules  at the rate or 1 cup per 10 foot bed. Work the crystal 3″ deep into the 36″ wide beds. This insecticide will minimize vine borers from attacking your vines.

Fertilization:

Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization needs.  Soil sample kits including sample bag and instructions can be  obtained from your local county  Agricultural extension service office free of charge. However, the fee  for the actual soil analysis is usually about $15.00.

Melon normally need  side dressing in mid season to produce well. Side dress with 13-13-13 at the rate of ½ cup per 25 row feet in the trench between rows described above. Side dress melons when blooming starts.

 

Planting & Growing:

Set out transplants or direct seed bed after all danger of frost has passed. Sow beds about ½” to ¾” deep, 2 seed per planting holes. Place seeds about 12″ to 16″ apart. If transplanting seedling from pot care should be taken not to damage tender root and melons are sensitive to root damage. As plant emerge hill the plants up slightly from soil in the trench between rows. When 4 true leaves appear cover the entire  36″ wide bed including the trench between the rows with leaves or straw mulch. The mulch will retain moisture, attract worms, and reduce the growth of weeds in the beds. Any weeds that do germinate are easily removed by hand or light cultivation. Once the vine take off weed should no be a problem due to the shading of the large abundant leaves.

Care during the growing season:

Side-dress plants with 1 tablespoon of 13-131-13  fertilizer in the trench between rows when the plants show first sign of blooming. When it is time to water your plants simply apply a moderate amount of water into the trench between the row you formed earlier.  Do not apply water to quickly as you may wash out  soil holding the water. The water will slowly soak deeply onto the root zone.  Using this method your plants will always have adequate moisture to perform well.  It is of great importance that the soil be kept moist (Not wet) and weed free. Withhold water from plants 2 weeks prior to harvesting.

Pests & Diseases: Pests Cucumber beetles, squash vine borers, pickleworms. Pest Description Cucumber beetle A ¼” long black and yellow spotted or striped beetles. Feeding on foliage, flowers, stems or fruit. Flying from one plant to another sometime spreading common diseases. Aphids Aphids are tiny almost transparent sucking insects commonly found on the underside of leaves. Diseases Disease Description Bacterial Wilt Plants are infected with the bacterial wilt disease by the attack of cucumber beetles. By the time wilting occurs it is too late to prevent. Powdery mildew This problem is usually caused by overhead watering too late in the day easily controlled with a fungicide.

The severity of insect attack is much greater in late crops. It is suggested that the control program start early (emerging seedlings) and continued on a regular basis.  Consult your local county extension  service office for diagnosis and recommended treatment.

Harvesting:

Deciding when to harvest melon is a little more difficult than most other vine crops. I have found that most melons from an individual plant will ripen fairly closely to one another. So when one is ripe the others on the same vine are not far behind. The ripeness of all melon are not detected the same. Most melon are ripe when the rind turns to yellow-buff. In cantaloupes the melon turns a golden yellow a few day prior to ripening. Cantaloupes vine stems are very easy to remove from the melon, or will sometime separate on there own. In water melons the tendrils closest to the melon will turn from green to brown. The underside against the ground or mulch of watermelons will turn yellow. Taping on a ripe water melon with the end of your finger will produce a dull base thud when struck.

Storage:

Melons are typically eaten fresh.  Chill when ready to eat.