Lettuce

Quick Grower’s Guide:

Sowing Depth 1/8″
Plant Spacing 8″; 3 rows in 36″ wide beds
Germination Soil Temp. 40° – 65º F (4.5° – 18.3 C)
Day’s to Germination 7 to 21
Sow Indoors Six weeks before first frost
Sow Outdoors Late summer or early spring
Growing Soil Temps 55º – 65º F (12.8º – 18.3º C)
Soil pH 6 – 7
Light Requirement Full Sun
Seed Longevity 1 year, refrigerated

General Information:

Lettuce is a delightful crop to grow in loose rich well drained soil. Lettuce come in many varieties which are sweeter and more tender than the ones purchased in the local market. Everyone seems to like lettuce for dietary salads. Lettuce is a cool weather crop. It can be divided into two categories; head lettuce and leaf lettuce. Growing lettuce in your garden will give you the opportunity to taste fresh flavorful leaves which (unlike iceberg) need little or no dressing. Leaf lettuce and romaine provide flavor and crunch and are excellent salad and sandwich selections.

A full bed of lettuce is hard for me to  keep the weed free, so I grow lettuce as a companion crop all over the garden where a little space is available. It is much easier to manage weeds using this method. It can be companioned with anything in the garden. Partial shade is beneficial to lettuce preventing tip burn & bitterness. I like it especially companioned with small crop like beets, carrots, onions, radishes & small herbs. Larger varieties like romaine need a little more space than the leaf types but I can always find a spot. I like the idea of being able to go of a trim a few leaves anytime I want a quick salad. I prefer growing lettuce in the fall as many varieties bolt in our hot spring and early summers.

Seed starting:

I have never had great success direct seeding lettuce in my beds. I prefer starting mine in small 2¼” pots in late summer for a fall crop. A great lettuce crop begins with large vigorous health seedlings 4 to 6 weeks old, grown in small growing pots. Growing your own seedlings insure quality and varieties not commercially available. Lettuce  seedling are seldom found commercially. The seeds should be started about 8 weeks before your average first frost date in your zone, or your planned transplant date. Make sure the seed starting mix is a light sterile soil mix with a liberal portion of Perlite or Vermiculite to maintain moisture.  Lettuce needs light to properly germinate so just lay seed on top of soil and lightly sprinkle with soil to cover. Sow your seed no more than 1/8″ deep as the seed are very small and difficult to sow. Sow two seeds in each pot, keep the healthiest plant after two true leaves appear. The small seedling can be easily separated but the object here is to produce the best seedling possible. During the day, keep the seedling  next to a sunny window after they have germinated. Move to top of the water heater or refrigerator at night if you do not have a greenhouse. A heated greenhouse will produce ideal, controllable growing conditions.  I feed my newly emerged seedling every other watering cycle. I prefer feeding my young seedlings with Fish Emulsion or liquid seaweed.  After they have grown two true leaves.

Soil Preparation:

For best results incorporate Liberal amounts of compost or well rotted manure deeply dug into the soil.  Beware of fresh manure as it may contain seeds, & high concentrations of urine & salts.  Since lettuce are  shallow rooted plant it is very sensitive to moisture fluctuations.   Without adequate moisture the shallow roots  cannot deliver the require nutrients to produce properly.  Rake to break up & remove debris from the soil. Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick to garden tools.  Form a 36″ wide bed the length of your choice. Using a garden hoe form a shallow trench in the center of the 36″ wide bed about 4″ deep. Do not allow the trench between the 2 rows too extend beyond the end of the beds as this trench will hold water later.  The 2 rows in the 36″ wide bed should be about 12″ to 16″ apart.

Fertilization:

Perform a complete soil analysis to determine fertilization needs.  Soil sample kits including sample bag and instructions can be  obtained from your local county  Agricultural extension service office free of charge. However, the fee  for the actual soil analysis is usually about $15.00.

Lettuce are shallow rooted and doesn’t absorb nutrients and moisture very well. Side dress rows with compost and feed lettuce with compost or manure teas for better absorption. Apply the tea every two week until harvested.

Hardening Off:

It will be necessary to harden off your seedlings before transplanting into the garden bed. The seedling must become accustomed to the harsher elements outdoors. This is accomplished by placing the seedling outside to a sheltered location. At this point the seedlings are very tender and easily broken by wind and rain. Start out by placing the seedling in full morning sunlight for one hour. Increase the time in full sunlight gradually adding time each day. Protect your seedlings from wind and animals to prevent breakage of the tender vegetation. Within two weeks your plants should be able to stand full sunlight the entire day without wilting or burning the tender leaves. At this point your seedlings are ready for the harsh elements of the garden.

Planting & Growing:

Transplant potted seedling very carefully. Take care removing seedling from pots. The stems are very fragile when young. Be sure the water the potted seedling well before transplanting. Seeds can also be started by directly sowing into your prepared wide row beds. Lettuce needs light to properly germinate so just lay seed on top of soil and lightly sprinkle with soil to cover. Plant no more than 1/8″ deep as the seed are very small and difficult to sow. when seedling have emerged thin to 8″ apart. If you have bare spots other seedling can be moved to fill in empty spots. Water the seedling well before attempting to move them.

Care during the growing season:

Lettuce does not require a lot of moisture but will perform poorly if too dry. Leaf or straw mulch will prevent this problem and reduce weed germination in the beds. Care should be taken when cultivating or weeding lettuce as the shallow roots are easily damaged.

Pests & Diseases:

Pests

The main pests associated with lettuce are: Aphids, slugs, leaf miners, spider mites & whiteflies.

Diseases

Aster yellows, downy & powdery mildew, white mold

Tip Burn

Tip burn is a condition that causes lettuce to “die back” at the edges of the leaves. It results from fluctuations in soil moisture content. Trim any brown leaves and use the remainder of the leaf. Frequent light watering and partial shade helps to prevent tip burn. Some varieties are resistant to this condition.

The severity of insect attack is much greater in late crops. It is suggested that the control program start early (emerging seedlings) and continued on a regular basis.  Consult your local county extension  service office for diagnosis and recommended treatment.

Harvesting:

Lettuce can be harvested anytime the leaves are large enough to use. Lettuce will re-grow removed leaves similar to mustard.

Storage:

Lettuce contains to much water to store for extended periods. It is best consumed when fresh. Avoid storing lettuce with apples, bananas or pears. There release of ethylene gas will cause the lettuce to develop brown spots and decay quickly. Wash and place in the refrigerator.

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